Today is Day 8 in Hawaii and we are driving the Chain of Craters Road in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. We’re on the Big Island with our daughter, our friends Jack and Lisa, and their kids. And we’ve been watching the Kilauea eruption all day, but we’re taking a break to explore more of the park. Check out our stops along the Chain of Craters Road and more!
Make sure to check back regularly for all of our adventures in Hawaii at: Destination – Hawaii.
About Chain of Craters Road
Chain of Craters Road is a scenic 18.8 mile drive in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. It starts at the Kilauea summit and descends 3,700 feet to sea level. Along the way are many stops, viewpoints and hiking opportunities. And it starts off passing many pit craters for which the road is named after. You can read more at: Drive Chain of Craters Road – Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.
Taking a break from seeing the Kilauea eruption, we decide to drive the Chain of Craters Road. Earlier in the day, we talked to a ranger at the Welcome Center that gave us some good tips. He said the 2nd pit crater named Puhimau Crater is an echo crater which sounds fun for the kids. He also mentioned a very short hike called the fissure trail that we’ll check out. And then we’ll continue down the road stopping along the way when we feel like it. One stop that sounds interesting is the hike to Pu’uloa Petroglyphs. And we’ll continue to the end of the road to the Holei Sea Arch. We’ll also take “Steve”, the name the kids call the narrator from the GuideAlong to learn as we go.
Start of the Chain of Craters Road
The Chain of Craters Road starts where Crater Rim Drive ends at the Devastation Trail parking lot. But instead of turning right to the parking lot, we turn left to start the scenic drive to the coast. It’s about 3:30PM in the afternoon when we start, so we plan to hit the highlights. And that’s why we skip the 1st stop and head to Puhimau Crater.
There’s a small parking lot here and at the end is a short walk to the overlook. Pit craters are formed by a crack that slowly makes its way to the surface causing the ground to cave-in. And Puhimau means “continuous smoke” because often steam can be seen on the far side of the crater. But we stopped here because you can also hear your echo. The kids and I take turns saying things, and sure enough we can clearly hear echoes of what we said. It’s a quick stop, but fun for the kids.
1969 Fissure Trail
About 3 miles down the road, we turn for the Napau Trailhead parking lot. Here there are plenty of spots and restrooms with vault toilets. Just past the restrooms is the start of all the trails. And a sign points right to the Mauna Ulu Eruption Trail and 0.1 miles to the 1969 Eruption Fissure.
After a series of earthquakes, the Mauna Ulu eruption started in 1969 from a large fissure that opened up here. And lava spewed out for 5 years down the mountainside to the coast dramatically changing the landscape. This short hike takes us through some woods until it opens up to a volcanic landscape. Everyone climbs up a spatter rampart, a unique geological formation left behind from the eruption.
From up top, you can see what’s left of the lava flow. We can see some unusual rock formations among the barren landscape, including many tree molds. These hollow molds are caused by lava flowing around trees leaving a sign of what was here before.
We have to look around for the fissure before we figure out where it is. I must have walked right past it because there are now trees growing out of them. But when I look down the fissure, I can see about 20 feet into the narrow hole.
While the kids are playing, we are careful to walk around it. Somehow, we have nicknamed it the Devil’s butt crack. And we can only imagine lava spewing out of it over 50 years ago. To the fissure and back only takes us 15 minutes, and after a potty break we are back on the road.
Continuing on the Chain of Craters Road
Back in the car, we continue through lava landscapes and forested areas learning from GuideAlong on the way. The Mauna Ulu eruption actually flowed over the Chain of Craters Road closing if for some time. And we also are heading down toward the shore.
About 6.5 miles down, I stop at the Kealakomo Overlook. Everyone stays in the car while I walk out to the wooden platform. From this scenic overlook, I can see over lava fields to a cliffside and the ocean beyond.
This is our 1st glimpse of the coast, but as we continue to drive we go around the cliff to see more. And this is where the views get much better. After about 10 minutes we make another stop in a gravel parking lot. But this time, we all decide to get out.
Puʻuloa Petroglyph Trail
Across the street is the start of the 1.4 mile moderate trail to the Pu’uloa Petroglyphs. This trail goes over a 500-550 year old lava flow to the largest collection of petroglyphs in Hawaii. With over 23,000 rock etchings, it is still a sacred site to many native Hawaiians today. And Becky sees 0.7 miles and says let’s go.
This trail is very rocky requiring us to carefully step along the way. It is definitely not easy, and there’s no clear path through the lava flow. If not for people in front of us, we wouldn’t know the direction to go. Though we figure out piles of rocks, or cairns, are used for the trail markers because there are no trees.
You have to take your time on this trail and the kids are complaining. Even Becky didn’t realize it was 0.7 miles each way. And our daughter slips and falls on the rocks. Though she’s only minutes from the end, Becky takes her back to the car, while the rest of us reach the boardwalk.
Puʻuloa Petroglyphs
Despite the rocky terrain, it takes us about 20 minutes to get to the boardwalk. And once here, we see an interpretive sign where we can go left or right. Though immediately we can see petroglyphs right next to the boardwalk.
The boardwalk is a large loop back to the beginning. And walking around it we see all kinds of shapes and symbols both inside and outside the loop.
Past the boardwalk we can look out for miles while seeing petroglyphs up-close. To protect this sacred site, we stay on the boardwalk. But if you got off, you could see petroglyphs in the distance as well.
Making the turn back we see a sign. It explains about puka holes that were made in the rocks to house piko (umbilical cords). This custom of putting a child’s umbilical cord in these holes would bless their child with a long prosperous life. And of the 23,000 petroglyphs, it is estimated 16,000 are piko-related carvings.
Even though there are numerous puka holes, we see all kinds of other shapes and symbols. We even see some of honu, or sea turtles. Compared to the petroglyphs we saw yesterday during our scenic drive, there are so many more here. This really is great place to see petroglyphs.
After about 10 minutes viewing the petroglyphs, we start the return trip. And we get back in 15 minutes. Our total time on the trail was 45 minutes.
Holei Sea Arch
Back in the car, we continue on the Chain of Craters Road. Once past Pu’uloa Petroglyphs, it’s a short drive to sea level. And then we follow the coast to the end of the road. There’ a parking lot here with a couple of small closed buildings, picnic tables and some restrooms. Past the restrooms is a gate blocking the end of the road.
After the last hike, the kids want to stay in the car. So they stay behind, even though it’s a short walk. Past the gate, we continue down the paved road before making the turn for the viewpoint. And it take us less than 5 to see the arch.
There is a roped-off area at the viewpoint that provides great views away from the cliff edge. The waves are crashing against the cliff side, and even go through the impressive sea arch. This pounding of the cliff is what created the arch. Though it is temporary, and will eventually fall into the sea.
After a few minutes at the viewpoint, we head back to the parking lot. To the sea arch and back took us about 12 minutes. It’s now close to 6:00PM, and we still have to drive the 19 miles back.
Driving back on the Chain of Craters Road
Starting from the coast, we start the drive back on the Chain of Craters Road. One thing we notice on the way is how the Sun looks in the sky. And then we realize it’s obstructed by the smoke coming from the volcano.
Not stopping on the way back, we drive the whole road in about 30 minutes. But there’s one more stop we have to do before we go back to Volcano House. And once parked, everyone is getting out for the last hike through a lava tube.
Thurston Lava Tube
Even though it’s not part of the Chain of Craters Road, you’ll have to drive right past it. I’m talking about Nahuku or the Thurston Lava Tube. And who doesn’t want to go through a cave made from lava. Everyone does which is why it can be hard to find a parking spot during the day. So when we get here about 6:30PM, it’s the perfect time to walk the short 0.4 mile trail.
The trail starts on a paved walkway with guardrails through a rainforest. And it’s less than 5 minutes before we get to the entrance of the lava tube. Inside the cave, there are lights from 8:00AM-8:00PM. Though we brought some headlamps with us for extra light.
Our daughter puts on a headlamp and leads the kids through the 500 year old lava tube. The inside of the cave looks like Pele carved a hole through the mountain.
Inside the cave is also wet. We have to walk around some puddles and having the extra light is helpful. At the exit to the cave are some stairs that lead up to a closed-off area.
It takes us 3 minutes walking through the tube, and at the end are some stairs back to the rainforest. On the way back we stop at the restrooms before finishing the loop. From beginning to end, this trail takes us 15 minutes. A perfect stop before we head back to Volcano House.
Summary of Chain of Craters Road
We spent 3 hours driving to the end of Chain of Craters Road and back. And we stopped at all the places we wanted to. Puhimau was a nice quick stop to see a pit crater that echoed. And the 1969 Fissure Trail turned out to be a great short hike. The Pu’uloa Petroglyph Trail was more difficult on uneven terrain. But the large group of petroglyphs was really neat to see. The road itself is a nice drive to the coast learning with GuideAlong on the way. And at the end of the road we saw the Holei Sea Arch which was incredible. There’s a great variety of lava features to see on this scenic drive. From the fissures and tree molds to the lava flows, spatter ramparts and even the sea arch was amazing. And we did the lava tube on the way back.
If you’re in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, you have to do the Chain of Craters Road! And make sure to check back regularly for all of our adventures in Hawaii at: Destination – Hawaii.