We’re looking forward to a winter wonderland at Paradise in Mount Rainier National Park in Washington. Along with our daughter, 2 grown sons and Kelly, we’re excited to visit Mount Rainier for the 1st time. And we’re staying at the National Park Inn in Longmire, the gateway to Paradise. Check out all our winter adventures at Paradise in Mount Rainier!
Planning a Winter Wonderland at Paradise in Mount Rainier
We’re spending Thanksgiving week in Washington to visit our son Drew and his girlfriend Kelly. And we’re spending 3 nights in Mount Rainier National Park staying at the National Park Inn in Longmire. (Check out our separate post Longmire at Thanksgiving in Mount Rainier NP. It’s the only lodging in the park open this time of year, and it’s as close as we can get to Paradise.
The other thing we had to reserve in an advance was a rental car. And since driving in the park can be potentially dangerous in the winter, the park requires tire chains. Though typical rental car companies do not provide them, and even advise against using them. So, we booked through Turo to find a local rental that included them. Make sure to check for more info at: Tire Chain Requirement – Mount Rainier National Park.
Paradise is famous for its amazing views and wildflower meadows in spring and summer. But it also turns into a winter wonderland at Paradise. And even at Thanksgiving, it is usually blanketed with snow creating many winter recreational activities. The park’s main visitor center is also located at Paradise. However, it’s only open on the weekends during winter. So, we plan ahead to do a few short hikes on our own. And we’ll stop at the visitor center when we leave on Friday. And there’s also a few stops we have to hit on the way. But, we need to check when the gate is open first.
Gateway to Paradise
During winter, the Longmire to Paradise road is only open during the day when conditions are good. Check Alerts & Conditions – Mount Rainier National Park before entering the park for the latest updates.
Each morning and night we could see the gate to Paradise closed from the National Park Inn in Longmire. However, the front desk at the inn was informed each day if and when the gate would open. And on our 1st day we were told the gate would open at 11:00AM. Though it opened a little earlier.
The Road to Paradise
Once we get in our car, we start the GuideAlong app. For those of you that have followed us, you know we use it every chance we get. It truly is like having a guide in your car pointing out interesting sites, history and more. They have one just for Mount Rainier or as part of their Pacific Coast Bundle. Check them out at: Audio Tour Guides | GuideAlong.
Once we’re on our way, GuideAlong gives us some information about Paradise. And after a few minutes of driving, we start to see snow. GuideAlong also points out our 1st stop. A little more than 10 minutes up the road is the Carter Falls Trailhead and Viewpoint. From the viewpoint we can see the Nisqually River lightly painted with snow. Though the trail is closed because the footbridge that crosses the river has washed away. So after a quick stop, we continue up the road to Paradise.
Christine Falls
As we continue, GuideAlong points out the Comet Falls Trailhead. Though like Carter Falls, this trail is not recommended during winter. So, we continue ahead and after about 30 minutes we make it to Christine Falls. And per GuideAlong’s recommendation, we cross the bridge and park on the other side.
Not only is there more parking, but we can get a better view from this side. Though the street view is limited, but we can walk to a lower viewpoint with closer views.
The only problem is the path to the lower viewpoint is straight down and covered with ice and snow. Kelly stays back while the rest of us grab our poles and spikes to carefully make it down. It is not easy, but once down there is no snow and awesome views of the 60 foot waterfall. Framed by the historic arched bridge, this is one of the most photographed spots in Mount Rainier.
Narada Falls
Another must-stop along the road to Paradise is Narada Falls. Unlike Christine Falls, it has a large parking lot here that is plowed in winter. From the upper viewpoint, you can see the falls also flowing under an arched bridge.
We can also see the top portion of Narada Falls as it plunges over the edge. Though while admiring the falls I lose Becky, so I go look for her. I cross over the bridge on the paved road and find some restrooms and a dead end. On the way back, near the bridge, I find a sign for the Narada Falls Trail.
Just like Christine Falls, this is a short but steep descent to the lower viewpoint. However this trail is longer and even more covered with snow. Though I find some footprints, so I think I’m going the right way.
Near the end, I find Becky. I joke that I’ve come to rescue her, but she assures me she doesn’t need rescuing. Still I forgot my spikes in the car and the snowy trail is challenging. But seeing the entire 168-foot waterfall from the bottom is totally worth it.
From the bottom, we wave at the kids at the top. Then careful climb back up. The whole trail takes us 15 minutes. And when we return, they’re still on the bridge playing in the snow.
Once back at the car we see a Steller’s jay native to western North America. It’s very different than the blue jays we see back east. After 40 minutes at this stop, we continue on to Paradise.
Arriving at Paradise
With the stops along the way, it’s taken us almost 2 hours to get to Paradise. The road dead ends at the parking lot for the visitor center. And though it’s closed, there’s still quite a few cars already here. Across the lot is the Paradise Inn which is closed for the winter. But one part is still open.
After a quick break, we head to the famous Muir steps inscribed with a quote from naturalist John Muir. Though today all we see is snow and footprints making the steps slick.
There are a lot of people just hanging around the steps and playing in the snow. Our son Matt is building a little snowman by the base of the steps while our daughter is throwing snowballs. And as soon as Matt is finished, some kid comes up and destroys it. Upset, our daughter unleashes a barrage of snowballs at the kid and his whole family. I turn around to see a lady pelted by a snowball in the chest. She’s laughing about it, but I think it’s time to do a hike!
Winter Wonderland at Paradise – Skyline Trail to Myrtle Falls
The 1.0 mile round trip Skyline Trail to Myrtle Falls and back has about 100 feet of elevation. Normally a 35-minute walk on a paved summer trail, it takes longer when the path is covered in snow.
The trail begins with a gentle climb past Paradise Inn. Fresh snow from last night blankets the path. Though today is cloudy, it still feels like walking through a winter wonderland.
Every 0.1 miles we see a sign pointing us toward Myrtle Falls. And once up the hill, we turn left following the Tatoosh Range directly toward Mount Rainier. After about 25 minutes, we make it to an open area with snow-covered benches.
In between the benches is a path with a little sign that points the way to Myrtle Falls Viewpoint. Like the other waterfalls, we have to descend to a lower viewpoint.
The steps are covered with snow and ice making it very slippery. I think all of us make it down on our butts. Though just like before, the views are much better.
There is much more snow and ice covering the falls, though we can still see some water trickling down below us. We can also see a small bridge at top of the falls, so we head back up.
Back up top, just past the benches, we see the small snow-covered bridge. We can see the water flowing through the snow under the bridge and to the viewpoint. It truly is a winter wonderland at Paradise.
Heading Back from Myrtle Falls
We would love to continue, but the Skyline Trail is actually 5.5 miles total round trip. And it’s getting late, so we head back. Though about half way on the return, Becky, Matt and I take the Waterfall Trail the rest of the way.
It’s clear the Waterfall Trail is less traveled, with fewer footprints and deeper snow. This makes it more challenging, though it begins by paralleling the Skyline Trail below.
We wave at Drew, Kelly and our daughter below as they wave back before continuing the trail. At the end we intersect with the Skyline portion of the trail that descends back to the Muir Steps. Total hiking time was about 1 hour and 15 minutes.
Once down, we stop at the restrooms once more before heading to our car. By this time there’s a park ranger in a truck talking over a speaker. He’s telling everyone to start heading down since the the gate closes in 40 minutes. And we still have quite a drive. We only make a couple quick stops, and make it back to Longmire with more than 5 minutes to spare.
Arriving at Paradise the 2nd Day
The gate opened up at about 9:00AM today on Thanksgiving, but we had a late breakfast. So it’s after 10:30 before we decide to head back to Paradise. However, we’re splitting up. Becky decides to stay back in Longmire to explore more of the historic district. While the rest of us go up to Paradise to the Nisqually Vista Trailhead.
It rained a little earlier today, but we’re seeing less clouds and more of the mountain today. We even see a deer crossing the street. And again we haven’t needed to use our tire chains. We head back up to the visitor center parking lot and hit the restrooms one more time before the trail. Then we drive back down taking the first right into the parking lot.
We drive around to the back side and there’s a hill of snow to the other side. And the 1st thing our daughter does is run up the hill and slide down. Our daughter only agreed to come with us to play in the snow again. And she is winning.
Back at the car we find a few camp robbers. I’m talking about Canada jays formerly known as gray jays. These birds land on our car and even on Matt’s extended hand. These friendly little birds are known to boldly visit campsites in search of food. But with no food, they eventually fly off. So Kelly and our daughter decide to build a snow fort while the boys hike the Nisqually Vista Trail.
Winter Wonderland at Paradise – Nisqually Vista Trail
The Nisqually Vista Trail is a 1.2 mile lollipop loop trail with 200 feet of elevation. In summer, it’s an easy paved trail with viewpoints of the Nisqually Glacier and Mount Rainier. In winter, deep snow often covers the trail, making it suitable for beginner snowshoeing. Though without snowshoes, we will tackle the hike with just our hiking poles and micro-spikes.
Because the parking lot has been plowed, the snowpack is a couple feet high. And we have to climb over it just the start the trail. But once over we find ourselves in a winter wonderland again.
With all the snow-covered fir trees, it looks like we’re in a Hallmark Christmas movie. And through the clouds the glimpses of Mount Rainier make it more picture perfect.
We start off over a snow-covered bridge over trickling Deadhorse Creek. And less than 10 minutes later we make it to the start of loop. Here we stay right and head straight toward the mountain.
As we’re hiking, I can feel my poles hitting the pavement trail below. Though the snow is deep enough that my micro-spikes keep slipping off. I lag behind the boys and see why people snowshoe here. Still, I reach several viewpoints with clear views of the Nisqually Glacier and Mount Rainier.
After the viewpoints, the trail loops back toward the Tatoosh range. Just before finishing the loop, I spot a tree marked by likely elk or deer antler rubs. And then we follow the trail back to the start, completing the hike in exactly an hour.
Snowball fights and Snowmen
When we finish the hike, we spot Kelly and our daughter. They are ready for us. They built a snow wall at the top of some stairs for their fort. And they already have a pile of snowballs made. They have both the high ground and the ammunition.
After the obligatory snowball fight, the kids are making snowmen again. Well Matt made a snowman, and our daughter made a snowdog.
It’s almost 2:00PM, and we need to head back for our Thanksgiving dinner reservation at the National Park Inn. So, we only spend a few hours in Paradise today. But we’ll be back tomorrow when the visitor center is open.
Paradise Visitor Center
After we checked out of the National Park Inn, we go up to Paradise one more time. The gate is already open and when we arrive at 11:30PM, the parking lot is packed. It might be because it’s the Friday after Thanksgiving, but more likely it’s due to the sunny, beautiful weather. The mountain is especially clear today.
The Paradise Visitor Center is named after longtime Washington senator Henry M. Jackson, and its doors are wide open today. Inside, the space opens up, with views from the first floor all the way to the wood rafters above. We’d normally stop to talk with park rangers, but since we’re leaving today, Becky just needs to get the passport books stamped.
Upstairs is their gift shop that has all kinds of souvenirs. And we get a 10% discount for staying at the National Park Inn. We have to get another ornament for our tree and another magnet for the fridge. After the gift shop, we check out the exhibits on the other side of the 2nd floor.
They have a large area with multiple exhibits about the mountain, its inhabitants and more. They even have a deli downstairs in the back of the building. The only thing we don’t find are restrooms, but we know where to go. And after about an hour at Paradise, we say goodbye to the winter wonderland.
Summary of a Winter Wonderland at Paradise
We spent 3 days exploring the winter wonderland at Paradise in Mount Rainier. The Longmire to Paradise road offers scenic stops with GuideAlong providing history and facts along the way. 2 stops that we recommend are the picturesque Christine Falls and Narada Falls. Though you have to walk to the lower viewpoints to get the best views. Just be prepared for walking in the snow. Though our daughter was happy just playing in the snow, I really enjoyed our 2 hikes. Doing a short bit of the Skyline Trail was amazing and the Nisqually Vista Trail had spectacular views. And it was a great way to end our trip with some souvenirs from the Paradise Visitor Center.
On the last day, the sun came out and began melting the snow, making the roads a bit slippery. We didn’t use our tire chains, but now understand why they’re required—even in early winter. We can only imagine how much more snow arrives later in the season. One thing is certain: Paradise in winter is magical. Though we’d love to visit next time in summer.
Make sure to check back regularly for all of our adventures at Our Blog – Working Family Travels.